As a theatre for global history, few cities distill as many major modern events as Berlin. Germany's capital has long exceeding the boundaries of its central European geography, integrating with world trends in science, ideology and governance. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989, the city's residents have rebounded in creative ways, earning themselves a reputation for electronic music, art and late-night revelry. Despite its credentials for hedonism and a willing defiance of EU smoking regulations, Berlin also knows how to pay attention to athletic needs, providing enough for runners, cyclists and swimmers to . . .