Day 15: Pasman to Rogonzica, Croatia
Jack Richards, August 12, 2011
Setting off reluctantly from last night’s idillic camp, I nipped over the five remaining kilometres of Preko to Tkon to jumped on a ferry back to the mainland, before picking the Dalmatian coast road once again.
Arriving into the busy town of Biograd, I got into a great rhythm on the bike and smashed out 50km in under 2 hours. Passing through more pine forests, the road south straight-lines some of the coasts headlands and bays, climbing up a few draggy hills in the process. I felt really strong on the bike, with an indication of my true form only exposed when sprinting through some changing traffic lights, which hurt my legs.
Entering Sibnenik I noticed a UNESCO sign, indicating that the town was a World Heritage Sight. A quick check on Wikipedia over coffee revealed my target; The Cathedral of St. James.
I pottered down to the port and went to check it out. A very impressive building in equally awesome surroundings, although I am not sure I have sufficient knowledge of renaissance architecture to comment further on its merits.
My plan is to have a rest day tomorrow in Split, as I am meeting up with some of my brother Harry’s friends who live there. Rather than have two nights in Split I decided to stop 40km short here in the beautiful town of Rogonzica, thus giving me a shorter day today and a quick spin tomorrow morning to loosen my legs.
The shorter day today afforded me the time for a leisurely lunch at an awesome restaurant with a shaded terrace that overlooked a bay. Following my considerable refuel, I sat for a while before finishing off my riding to camp.
After a cheeky siesta on arrival I wondered into the town in time to see the day’s fishing catch being sold from the back of the boats to which the fish were landed.
The tiny campsite here is very basic and correspondingly cheap. Also a fantastic location up about 10 meters from the coast, I am sat brewing up my pasta overlooking a marina stuffed with magnificent yachts – yet another hellish spot in Croatia.
Cruising around the coast is awesome; Clearing each headlands reveals another sleepy bay with the odd boat cruising through it and several moored up. The water is the most amazing colour and of perfect clarity. Along the way there are countless fruit stalls which I am maxing out on – peaches and nectarines costing pennies. The weather continues to be perfect for riding; always a steady breeze, which although sometimes slows my pace, I welcome its cooling calm. There must be exceptionally low humidity, most noticeable due to the cracking of my lips. A good challenge for Dermatone lip balm which I am testing this trip.
Tomorrow is my last rest day before a few big days down to Montenegro.